Côtes de Nuits-Villages 'Les Vignottes', Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron 2007

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Côtes de Nuits-Villages sits quietly at the foot of Burgundy's greatest ladder — not a village appellation, not a premier cru, but capable of something genuinely fine in the right hands. Confuron is very much the right hands. Based in Prémeaux-Prissey, just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, this domaine has long punched above its postcode, farming carefully and fermenting with restraint. 'Les Vignottes' is a lieu-dit that sits close to the boundary with Nuits, and in a good vintage it shows it. The 2007 Burgundy vintage had a tricky reputation — cool and uneven — but patient producers who waited for ripeness made wines with real charm and freshness rather than weight. At nearly 19 years old, this one is now very much at its peak: the fruit has shifted from bright cherry into something more dried and savoury, the oak long since integrated, and the whole thing sitting in that sweet spot of Burgundian maturity. Drink it soon, ideally tonight, with something from the Burgundian larder.

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