Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grands Crus 2014 (75cl)

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Aromas of toasted brioche and pastries flavored with lemon meringue, hazelnut and almond. On the palate, the bubbles leave a gentle caress with a hint of zest and passion. This Comtes de Champagne 2014 offers a superb, mouthwatering freshness, an excellent structure and a long finish. Wonderful aromas of cooked apples, bread dough, meringue, honeysuckle, lilacs and some lavender. Medium-bodied with density and focus, a tight palate and a lovely texture. Creamy mouthfeel. Long and seamless finish. Pure chardonnay. Aged for five or six months on the lees in 228-liter barrels. Disgorged January 2025. 9 g/L dosage. Drink or hold. The 2014 Comtes de Champagne is pristine. In this tasting, it comes across as a mini-2008, similar in its linear personality, with just a touch more mid-palate creaminess. Readers will find a Comtes that plays in the realm of tension and energy. Citrus confit, white flowers, chalk, mint and chamomile are all finely sketched. Light tropical overtones grace the finish. What an absolute delight. The 2014 can be enjoyed now or cellared. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Occupying a stylistic middle ground between the incisiveness of the 2013 and the fleshier textures of the 2012, Taittinger's 2014 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne-disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of nine grams per liter-has turned out beautifully. It offers aromas of orange peel, peach, pear and brioche mingled with hazelnut and burnt buttered toast. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and textural, with a layered yet crisp core of fruit, considerable tension and a long, chalky finish. Harmonious and racy-fresh though it is, this is a marginally richer rendition than the 2013 tasted alongside it, yet both promise excellent longevity and will make for fascinating comparative tastings in the years to come.